Things I Wish I Knew Before I Got Into Rabbits:
Breeding
1. They might "breed" like rabbits but conceiving healthy, surviving litters can be trying!
2. Don't just breed once and wait 30 days only to be disappointed if the doe didn't take. Breed and then attempt 10 days later in case she didn't take the first time.
3. Starting with a trio will increase your odds of a successful litter: both for conceiving, ability to foster kits, etc.
4. Plan your breedings around the health of the doe. If she loses flesh or condition, consider waiting until she recovers.
5. Make sure you choose a good buck -- does seem to have a shorter breeding span (overtime litter numbers will get smaller, stress toll on their bodies, etc) but a good buck can produce across many does and longer amount of time.
Raising Kits:
1. Don't wean earlier than necessary. Most kits thrive better the later they're weaned.
2. Know your state laws regarding sales of animals. Most don't permit sales of animals under the age of 8 weeks.
3. Provide plenty of hay and fresh water. They'll go through growth spurts. Hay provides much needed fiber as they begin to transition from nursing to pellets.
4. If you handle frequently kits, you'll likely end up with better socialized animals.
Keeping Rabbits
1. Wear either a Carhart jacket/Kevlar knit sleeves or some form of arm protection to prevent getting clawed up.
2. You will never have enough cages - make them before you think you'll need them.
3. Keeping extra supplies on hand like water bottles and feeders are handy when something suddenly breaks or you need to quickly build a spare cage.
4. Keep a rabbit medicine kit BEFORE you end up needing it. I learned this the hard way.
5. Consider ways to keep your rabbits cool in the summer so that they don't get heat stress (fans, frozen water bottles to lay by...)
6. Conversely, warm in the winter: insulating cages, heat
Showing
1. Prepare the week before a show, not last minute. Getting tattoo ink off fur, making sure you have hay/water bottles packed, etc. is not something you want to worry about the morning of a show.
2. Arm yourself with business cards for your rabbitry. Shows are a great way to build connections and nothing is worse than not having a pen on hand or a piece of paper to jot down info.
3. Make sure you submit complete info about your rabbit for show entries. This includes: rabbit breed, variety, class (junior/int./senior), sex, and tattoo number.
4. Keep a gallon jug of water ready to fill water bottles at the show.
5. If you are showing more than one breed, it's helpful to have someone assist paying attention to what your classes are called. Sometimes all of your breeds may be up at the same time but you can only physically attend one!
6. Show only your best animals -- there's no point in wasting money on a judge's opinion if you already have a good gut feeling yourself. However, if you need an opinion between which rabbit you should keep or need further information, sometimes it's worth to bring the rabbit along.
1. They might "breed" like rabbits but conceiving healthy, surviving litters can be trying!
2. Don't just breed once and wait 30 days only to be disappointed if the doe didn't take. Breed and then attempt 10 days later in case she didn't take the first time.
3. Starting with a trio will increase your odds of a successful litter: both for conceiving, ability to foster kits, etc.
4. Plan your breedings around the health of the doe. If she loses flesh or condition, consider waiting until she recovers.
5. Make sure you choose a good buck -- does seem to have a shorter breeding span (overtime litter numbers will get smaller, stress toll on their bodies, etc) but a good buck can produce across many does and longer amount of time.
Raising Kits:
1. Don't wean earlier than necessary. Most kits thrive better the later they're weaned.
2. Know your state laws regarding sales of animals. Most don't permit sales of animals under the age of 8 weeks.
3. Provide plenty of hay and fresh water. They'll go through growth spurts. Hay provides much needed fiber as they begin to transition from nursing to pellets.
4. If you handle frequently kits, you'll likely end up with better socialized animals.
Keeping Rabbits
1. Wear either a Carhart jacket/Kevlar knit sleeves or some form of arm protection to prevent getting clawed up.
2. You will never have enough cages - make them before you think you'll need them.
3. Keeping extra supplies on hand like water bottles and feeders are handy when something suddenly breaks or you need to quickly build a spare cage.
4. Keep a rabbit medicine kit BEFORE you end up needing it. I learned this the hard way.
5. Consider ways to keep your rabbits cool in the summer so that they don't get heat stress (fans, frozen water bottles to lay by...)
6. Conversely, warm in the winter: insulating cages, heat
Showing
1. Prepare the week before a show, not last minute. Getting tattoo ink off fur, making sure you have hay/water bottles packed, etc. is not something you want to worry about the morning of a show.
2. Arm yourself with business cards for your rabbitry. Shows are a great way to build connections and nothing is worse than not having a pen on hand or a piece of paper to jot down info.
3. Make sure you submit complete info about your rabbit for show entries. This includes: rabbit breed, variety, class (junior/int./senior), sex, and tattoo number.
4. Keep a gallon jug of water ready to fill water bottles at the show.
5. If you are showing more than one breed, it's helpful to have someone assist paying attention to what your classes are called. Sometimes all of your breeds may be up at the same time but you can only physically attend one!
6. Show only your best animals -- there's no point in wasting money on a judge's opinion if you already have a good gut feeling yourself. However, if you need an opinion between which rabbit you should keep or need further information, sometimes it's worth to bring the rabbit along.