Rabbit Care
See also: Medicine Kit for Rabbits
This is a very, very brief page on rabbit care. I highly recommend any rabbit owner to purchase "Rabbit Production", latest edition, by James McNitt, Steven Lukefahr, Peter Cheeke, and Nephi Patton.
Feed
Any good-quality pelleted feed will do. The best estimate of quality is by smell and look. The feed should smell like fresh alfalfa, have a bright, clean color, and not show evidence of exposure to sun or water. The pellets should have a protein content of at least 16%. With meat rabbits, the idea is that protein assists in accelerating growth and by feeding 18%, your can maximize the feed:growth ratio. Here at Wild Eden in Maine, we feed 16% protein to our Mini Rex at 18% to our commercial breeds, Silver Fox and Californians. We buy Purina Show (16%P) at Tractor Supply and Hutch 18 (18%P) from Blue Seal.
You can determine the condition of your rabbit by feeling the flesh along the backbone. It is too fat or thin you may need to adjust the quantity of feed up or down to keep your pet in good flesh. Rabbits DO NOT have to have feed in their dishes at all times of the day, as feed made go stale and you both waste feed and rabbits can easily become overfed. A general rule of thumb is that The only exception to this is nursing does (females) and growing kits. In this case, free feeding (having a constant supply of food) is a must. Does need free feed for optimal lactation and kits require it to grow. Normally, smaller breeds will consume 3 - 5 ounces of feed per day, while larger breeds will consume 6 - 10 ounces daily (2). For mature rabbits, feed once per day. Timothy hay is very good for extra roughage. A small amount fist-sized amount can be given daily.
A salt spool is not needed. The pellets have adequate salt added.
Treats in moderation are O.K. Apple, carrot, oats (Quaker Oats), dandelion leaf or flower, bread crust or cereals such as Cheerios or Shredded Wheat do very nicely as treats. For small rabbits, feed a very small amount: a slice of apple, 1” of carrot, ¼ slice of dry bread, etc. Rabbits are picky eaters and may not like your choice of goodies. Stay away from “wet” feed such as greens, lettuce, or fruit for young animals. Too many treats and greens can cause diarrhea in rabbits.
Feed: Part II
A lot of rabbit owners have recently expressed interest in growing their own supply of fodder for rabbits...Rise and Shine Rabbitry has a wealth of information on the matter located at this link here.
Housing (for rabbits who are NOT being housed as indoor pets)
Rabbits should be housed in their own cage. As a rule of thumb, rabbits are solitary creatures once they hit maturity and can be territorial. While it may seem nice to house them in pairs, it's not unheard of to find rabbits who will maul each other to death. The floor should be of ½” X 1” weld-wire mesh. Walls are normally 1” X 2” weld-wire. A side-opening cage is most convenient for the owner, and the rabbit. Our cages for our meat rabbits are 24x36 inches and our mini rex reside in 18x24 inch cages. See below for an image of recommended cage sizes.
Some cages come with feeders attached through the cage wall. Some feeders have solid bottoms so you may need to watch for pellet dust that can accumulate in the feeder. Waters for rabbit can be supplied through water bottles, 2 liter conversion kits, or crocks. Crocks do need to be cleaned of algae at times. The flat bottom soup dishes sold at thrift stores work well as feed and water dishes. A soak in white vinegar keep dishes and bottles bacteria free.
Unless the cages are suspended, allowing manure to freely fall for later removal, most people generally use Duratray that slide under the cage. Dumping pans several times a week will keep the odor down and help maintain a healthier environment (and also reduce flies and bugs attracted to the manure).
Feed
Any good-quality pelleted feed will do. The best estimate of quality is by smell and look. The feed should smell like fresh alfalfa, have a bright, clean color, and not show evidence of exposure to sun or water. The pellets should have a protein content of at least 16%. With meat rabbits, the idea is that protein assists in accelerating growth and by feeding 18%, your can maximize the feed:growth ratio. Here at Wild Eden in Maine, we feed 16% protein to our Mini Rex at 18% to our commercial breeds, Silver Fox and Californians. We buy Purina Show (16%P) at Tractor Supply and Hutch 18 (18%P) from Blue Seal.
You can determine the condition of your rabbit by feeling the flesh along the backbone. It is too fat or thin you may need to adjust the quantity of feed up or down to keep your pet in good flesh. Rabbits DO NOT have to have feed in their dishes at all times of the day, as feed made go stale and you both waste feed and rabbits can easily become overfed. A general rule of thumb is that The only exception to this is nursing does (females) and growing kits. In this case, free feeding (having a constant supply of food) is a must. Does need free feed for optimal lactation and kits require it to grow. Normally, smaller breeds will consume 3 - 5 ounces of feed per day, while larger breeds will consume 6 - 10 ounces daily (2). For mature rabbits, feed once per day. Timothy hay is very good for extra roughage. A small amount fist-sized amount can be given daily.
A salt spool is not needed. The pellets have adequate salt added.
Treats in moderation are O.K. Apple, carrot, oats (Quaker Oats), dandelion leaf or flower, bread crust or cereals such as Cheerios or Shredded Wheat do very nicely as treats. For small rabbits, feed a very small amount: a slice of apple, 1” of carrot, ¼ slice of dry bread, etc. Rabbits are picky eaters and may not like your choice of goodies. Stay away from “wet” feed such as greens, lettuce, or fruit for young animals. Too many treats and greens can cause diarrhea in rabbits.
Feed: Part II
A lot of rabbit owners have recently expressed interest in growing their own supply of fodder for rabbits...Rise and Shine Rabbitry has a wealth of information on the matter located at this link here.
Housing (for rabbits who are NOT being housed as indoor pets)
Rabbits should be housed in their own cage. As a rule of thumb, rabbits are solitary creatures once they hit maturity and can be territorial. While it may seem nice to house them in pairs, it's not unheard of to find rabbits who will maul each other to death. The floor should be of ½” X 1” weld-wire mesh. Walls are normally 1” X 2” weld-wire. A side-opening cage is most convenient for the owner, and the rabbit. Our cages for our meat rabbits are 24x36 inches and our mini rex reside in 18x24 inch cages. See below for an image of recommended cage sizes.
Some cages come with feeders attached through the cage wall. Some feeders have solid bottoms so you may need to watch for pellet dust that can accumulate in the feeder. Waters for rabbit can be supplied through water bottles, 2 liter conversion kits, or crocks. Crocks do need to be cleaned of algae at times. The flat bottom soup dishes sold at thrift stores work well as feed and water dishes. A soak in white vinegar keep dishes and bottles bacteria free.
Unless the cages are suspended, allowing manure to freely fall for later removal, most people generally use Duratray that slide under the cage. Dumping pans several times a week will keep the odor down and help maintain a healthier environment (and also reduce flies and bugs attracted to the manure).
Health
Rabbits do not require vaccinations. They will shed their coats 1 to 2 times a year which is called molting (sometimes you were here people say they're "blowing their coats"). At this time it is beneficial to brush them with a “slicker” brush, such as the ones used on heavy-coated dogs or gently pluck out chunks of fur. Rabbits do not need to be bathed, either - which can be harmful if they're body temperature is lowered too low (source?). It is best to brush out any dried matter that clings to their coats.
If a rabbit does not have water, it will not eat. If a rabbit stops eating for a day or two it needs attention. Call an experienced breeder or a vet if it fails to eat for more than 1 or 2 nights. If diarrhea develops, call an experienced breeder, take away the pellets, and give the rabbit Timothy hay.
Temperature
Rabbits are very sensitive to high temperatures which can result in heat stress. Never house rabbits in direct sun. Watch for early morning or late afternoon sun if your rabbit is housed outside. Rabbits do well from below freezing to 90 degrees. Over 90 degrees you must provide some relief from the heat. You can move the animal to a cool place and a frozen 2-liter drink bottle to the cage. Running a fan on them is also helpful, not only for the heat, but to maintain good ventilation. Keep spare frozen bottles ready in the freezer. In the winter protect the rabbit from drafts and rain. It can handle the cold; it has a fur coat!
Handling
Most rabbits tame easily. They should be handled quietly and calmly. Do not let them run freely until they are tame enough to approach easily. Pet them on your lap on a towel or carpet square. Do not chase after a rabbit that has gotten free, especially in hot weather, when the stress of the chase can over-heat the rabbit. Do not press down on the rabbit’s back when attempting to catch it. This is a weak point and can cause paralysis if a disc is dislocated.
Pay attention to the rabbit’s mood. A hot rabbit does not usually want to be held and played with. A rabbit may sometimes exhibit hostile behavior. A rabbit that is always in a bad mood needs to be replaced! Rabbits growl (or grunt) and will sometimes push at intruders with their front feet. A consistent biter is not a good pet and if it's a breeder, consider replace it.
Rabbits do not require vaccinations. They will shed their coats 1 to 2 times a year which is called molting (sometimes you were here people say they're "blowing their coats"). At this time it is beneficial to brush them with a “slicker” brush, such as the ones used on heavy-coated dogs or gently pluck out chunks of fur. Rabbits do not need to be bathed, either - which can be harmful if they're body temperature is lowered too low (source?). It is best to brush out any dried matter that clings to their coats.
If a rabbit does not have water, it will not eat. If a rabbit stops eating for a day or two it needs attention. Call an experienced breeder or a vet if it fails to eat for more than 1 or 2 nights. If diarrhea develops, call an experienced breeder, take away the pellets, and give the rabbit Timothy hay.
Temperature
Rabbits are very sensitive to high temperatures which can result in heat stress. Never house rabbits in direct sun. Watch for early morning or late afternoon sun if your rabbit is housed outside. Rabbits do well from below freezing to 90 degrees. Over 90 degrees you must provide some relief from the heat. You can move the animal to a cool place and a frozen 2-liter drink bottle to the cage. Running a fan on them is also helpful, not only for the heat, but to maintain good ventilation. Keep spare frozen bottles ready in the freezer. In the winter protect the rabbit from drafts and rain. It can handle the cold; it has a fur coat!
Handling
Most rabbits tame easily. They should be handled quietly and calmly. Do not let them run freely until they are tame enough to approach easily. Pet them on your lap on a towel or carpet square. Do not chase after a rabbit that has gotten free, especially in hot weather, when the stress of the chase can over-heat the rabbit. Do not press down on the rabbit’s back when attempting to catch it. This is a weak point and can cause paralysis if a disc is dislocated.
Pay attention to the rabbit’s mood. A hot rabbit does not usually want to be held and played with. A rabbit may sometimes exhibit hostile behavior. A rabbit that is always in a bad mood needs to be replaced! Rabbits growl (or grunt) and will sometimes push at intruders with their front feet. A consistent biter is not a good pet and if it's a breeder, consider replace it.
Sources Used:
1. Rabbit Production, 9th Edition, 2013
2. ARBA's FAQ, 2013
Other Helpful Links:
ARBA's Recommendation of Care for Rabbits
The Art of Palpatation
4-H Showmanship of Rabbits
1. Rabbit Production, 9th Edition, 2013
2. ARBA's FAQ, 2013
Other Helpful Links:
ARBA's Recommendation of Care for Rabbits
The Art of Palpatation
4-H Showmanship of Rabbits